Let's take just a moment and talk about choosing a machine. I'm going to start with two assumptions. First, if you're new to sewing - as in, just learning - that you're either taking a class where you can learn to use a machine or able to borrow one from a friend to learn on. Second, if you're an experienced seamstress shopping for a new, top-of-the-line machine... you probably know which gew gaws and gizmos are important to you and you don't need my opinions.
So we'll move on to "sewing machines for the rest of us." How do you select the machine that's good enough to be your work horse while you go from novice to reasonably adept? Or move to your next machine if you've outgrown a "beginner" model?
Rule number one: You get what you pay for. Which is to say, don't buy a cheap $100 machine from a mass merchandiser under any circumstances. You won't be happy with it, and it will lead to enough frustration that you might start to believe you're "no good" at sewing. When, in fact, the issue is a poorly built machine.
Rule number two: Decide if you're going to go new or used. For some people, nothing but new will do. Viking, Husqvarna, Elna, Bernina, and Janome all make excellent work-a-day machines. Don't expect to be able to sew denim jackets on one for 8 hours a day, months on end (even if it says "Jeans Machine" on the front). Do expect one of these machines to willingly take years of hobby sewing, as long as you're careful about cleaning and maintenance. I'm going to make a confession here: I'm not a fan of Singer. Some of the vintage machines are OK, but I've never been happy with the newer models. You'll pay more for the higher end machines - but they'll pay you back in the long run. I've had my current machine for 13 years. It's going strong, with no sign at all of needing replacement. When you factor the price of a machine over a 15-20 (or more) year span... it doesn't look so bad. Especially as they often hold their value quite well. It's common for most sewing machine specialty dealers to accept trade-ins when folks upgrade to bigger and better models. Keep this in mind.
When you go sewing machine shopping, start out by making a list of the sorts of things you do with your machine, and the sorts of things you'd really LIKE to be able to do with it. As much fun as it is to drool on the top-of-the-line machine, if that doesn't fit your budget, don't torment yourself. Find the machine that will do what you need. Should you find, in the future, that you've outgrown your machine you'll find that most sewing machine specialty shops will take them in on trade. You can upgrade AND still get something out of your old machine.
Which brings us to the other half of the equation: The used machine. This can be an excellent value to the savvy seamstress. It can also be a horribly pitfall for the novice. If you're new to sewing and shopping for a used machine, I strongly recommend that you go visit a sewing machine dealer. Tell them what you want. See what they have available - likely there will be a few older models that other patrons have 'traded in' for something with more bells and whistles. A good salesperson will guide you to a machine that meets your needs. Or let you know if nothing they currently have fits the bill. An excellent salesperson will take down your needs, your name, and your number and call you when a suitable machine IS traded in. If you're a patient sort, this is a wonderful way to buy a machine. It's also a wonderful way to buy accessories - I spoke with the delightful woman who runs a local business and managed to purchase a walking foot for my machine at about 1/2 the retail price.
You can certainly also shop privately for a machine. Craig's List, estate sales, and thrift stores are all rich sources of sewing machine possibilities. But you need to be more careful.
First, make sure the machine has all it's parts, including the foot pedal. If that's missing, you can't test it. Walk away.
TEST it. Make sure that the light comes on. Ask for or bring a small bit of fabric and thread. Wind a bobbin. Sew a few test stitches. Make sure the needles moves freely up and down and doesn't hit the throat plate.
Ask about it's history. With any luck, it's a well-loved machine that's been maintained and has it's accessories - maybe even a manual. Now, it's not a deal-breaker if it doesn't. Do your research before you even go look at it, if that's an option. Many vintage machine manuals and accessories are available on E-bay. Just make sure you factor the cost into the price of the machine.
Many of the best options that combine ease of use with reliability are the vintage machines from the 1950's and 1960's. They tend to have metal gears, motors that run forever, and often metal cases as well. Try to find one recent enough to have buttons or wheels to select whatever decorative stitches it has - rather than one with cams that must be inserted. Cams get lost or broken. Put it in it's case and pick it up. If you didn't nearly dislocate your shoulder, keep looking. These babies are heavy, but they're also heavy duty.
There are lots and lots and LOTS of vintage machines out there that will suit. You'll have to kick the tires, give them a trial run, and decide what features are or aren't deal breakers for you. (Hint: I have an automatic button holer for my Viking. I never use it. It's easier just to mark the little beasts than to use the wheel and worry about it slipping/etc. You may not need all the bells and whistles on a modern machine).
From personal experience, the Pfaff 1222 is a good machine. Google around a bit and you'll inevitably find some. The 1222's contemporaries by Viking, Janome, Elna, and New Home are also good choices.
Many people are in love with Singer Featherweights. They're cute machines. Dependable workhorses. They are so popular that obtaining extra parts, belts, etc. is pretty easy. You can even get them painted in custom colors. Your sewing circle may envy you. The other side of this coin is that demand often drives up the price. Unless you're very patient and good at trolling estate sales, Craig's List, E-bay, and the like, you may end up paying $300-400 for a Featherweight. Which sort of defeats the purpose of budget shopping for a vintage machine. If that's what you want, have at! There are probably less popular, equally good machines available for half that price.
If you've got your own suggestions for a favorite vintage machine, please leave it in the comments! In fact, share a picture and I'll add it to the post!
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